It's me! Hello! Apparently, flicking through the archives, my last post here was six months ago, so it's definitely been a while. The truth is, lately it's been hard finding the right time to post here, because this all seems so trivial whilst there are real problems out there in the world. When it boils down to it though, posting here makes me happy, and fulfills some of the creativity that I like to keep as a part of my life, so it's something I'd definitely like to start doing again. I've been feeling a need to return to the roots of my blog too, which was all about making stuff, so whilst I'll probably still do random posts, I think I want to focus most of my time here talking about making.
It's quite interesting to look at how far I've come; in the beginning here I was definitely looking for quick, easy projects that required minimal effort and lots of glue gun action. Now however, I enjoy things a little more involved and time consuming. The one thing I like my projects to be now is useful. I want to make things that will see a lot of use, rather than making lots of small knick-knacky things, because it's kind of rewarding to repetitively use something that you made yourself. I've kind of gotten more aware of my personal style too; I like plainer designs with interesting detail, feminine styles that aren't too girlish, and elegant things that can be worn on the daily (read: fancy, but not too fancy).
So, I've got a lot of things that need to be blogged - the longer I haven't been blogging, the more I've been making it seems! It is also the case that I've got a little quicker at sewing (I'll never consider myself to be a speed sewer, but things definitely don't take as long as they did in the early days). There's a few previews of these projects on my instagram feed: these trousers that met a tragic end (that I will need therapy in order to discuss in full detail), this jacket which is now my most beloved possession, and these socks (which I still need to finish, but eh). And here I am, about to blog about the most recent thing I've made. But I have just thought up a superbly punny title, so I cannot miss such an opportunity.
This is the Burda "Deep V Blouse" (see what I did, see what I did??) - you can have a look see at the pattern here - made up in this rather lovely cotton lawn from Textile Express. When I first saw it, my instant thought was of canadian geese, although Textile Express seem to be upselling it as swan print. The navy version definitely makes me thinks of flamingos though, and I do believe there to be a light blue and yellow version of the print on the Fabric Godmother site. Do I have shares in this fabric? No, but I wish I did. Now, I know I just said I prefer plainer clothes at the moment, but for me this is quite a neutral print. Those of you who wear actually neutral clothing now are probably snickering behind your screens, but hey I'm a recovering print addict, and for me this is actually very wearable. It ticked the boxes in quite a few ways - firstly it was a bird print, which I am very partial to (as you shall see from some things which shall be blogged in the near future). Secondly it was MILLENIAL PINK. Very important. Perhaps most importantly, it was a pattern and fabric which looks great with denim. Denim is like, half of my wardrobe. I bought a metre and a half with not many plans except that I knew I wanted to make a top or a blouse of some type.
Which is where this Burda pattern came in. It's been on my to do list for actual years (since whenever that issue of the magazine came out), and seeing Sophie's version as part of me-made-may gave me the push. As a totally unrelated side, I am in love with Sophie's handmade wardrobe and want, like, one of everything. In a moment of decisive haste, as I was supposed to be working on a large assignment, I traced and cut out the pattern. Properly. In the past, when I traced out Burda patterns I was really lazy with adding seam allowance, and thought that if I just traced out a bigger size than needed I wouldn't need to add seam allowance? Because that makes sense? Oh 2015 me, you were so clever. This led to me learning several things - A- Burda patterns come out h u g e, B - just cut out the size you need and add seam allowance C - no really, it's actually worth it.
So this is the size 34-36". It's a style that's supposed to be oversized, so I don't think you have to be too particular about the sizing. But it's Burda, so if you're in doubt, I'd advise you to cut out a size down. A couple of things initially concerned me about the design - the lack of bust darts can be quite unflattering on me, and the armscye seemed really low. I therefore altered the design very, very slightly - raised the armscye by one inch, and also made the plunging neckline less dramatic. I do love the neckline on the original, but I wanted this to be wearable on the daily, and for me, that means a slightly higher neckline.
As you can see from the above photo, the armscye still turned out really, really low, and this troubled me, because I wanted to be able to move my arms! However, when wearing this top, I actually haven't found arm movement that tricky. I guess it's because the rest of the blouse is quite loose fitting, so it moves with you, rather than holding you in place. The sleeves are definitely my favourite part of this design, as they are quite dramatic. Each sleeve is constructed out of three sections - a middle, and a front and a back, with curved seams which creates a lovely, curved, voluminous design. The back has a yoke with two pleats either side, which creates more volume in the back. In this cotton fabric, it's definitely got a lot of body, but I'd be interested in seeing how it would look in a drapey fabric. Looking at these photos, the hem looks pretty uneven when it's on the hanger, but it's actually not. Having so much volume, it was a bit of a nightmare to get it to sit nice!
Here's some photos of the insides. I french seamed everything, because I am a masochist. Even though I am now firm friends with my overlocker, I still prefer to do nice seam finishes on projects like this as I think it's a bit more luxurious! If I'm taking the time to make something, I may as well put in the extra time to make it a bit more long lasting and tidy. The pattern calls for a neck facing, but I decided to use a bias tape instead, simply out of personal preference. I got halfway through making matching bias tape, before having had enough masochism on this particular day, and used a pink bias tape I already had in my supplies. Yup, it shows through slightly but I don't really care enough to put myself through bias binding hell.
As for the construction, I don't think there's that much of interest. I did what I always do with Burda instructions: read them through once, just to check if there's anything important I might miss, before abandoning them completely and making up my own thing. I deviated from the pattern and cut two yoke pieces so that seams were hidden inside, which again is just a personal preference. I also sewed in the sleeves in the flat, as I hadn't done this before and was a little bit curious as to what it was like. It seemed to work ok, and I think I would do it again. It definitely makes gathering and easing easier, although luckily the sleeves on this pattern seemed to fit really well.
Although I had a moment towards the end of this project, before hemming the sleeves and bottom edge, where I was worried I wasn't going to like the end result, I actually do really like it. Yes, it's rather ridiculously oversized which does give me 80s vibes, but I actually really love pretty much everything about 80s fashion, and I don't care what you think. I know I'll get a lot of wear out of it too, particularly if this heat wave we've been having continues. Every summer I always try to experiment with sleeveless styles, and always come back to loose, more covered up tops. They're just breezier to me somehow, and don't make me feel paranoid about burning my skin.
With the scraps, I made myself a matching neckerchief. Why am I so extra?
So, would I make it again, and any changes etc etc? Actually, yep, I've already got my next version kind of planned out. I want to use this pattern to try and recreate Lorde's dress/coat/thing here. Although I think this Guy Laroche pattern would be a more accurate recreation, I'm only using influences from this look. A Victorian style double breasted button plate though.... now that would be extra! For wearability though, I'm thinking a black cotton version of the Burda Deep V Blouse would actually work really well, if I added some sleeve ties and perhaps drafted a waistband and skirt so it was a dress. Or maybe I could just make a separate a-line skirt, to be worn with the top in order to give the illusion of a dress. It would also give me the option of wearing the two pieces separately, and I want to get the most mileage out of my handmade wardrobe. However, before this plan goes ahead I want to try and use up more of my fabric in my stash. Actually, don't hold me to that.
So, that was a bit wordier than I originally intended, but thanks for making it this far! I've got a few more sewing related things I want to blog, but I might try and mix it up a bit because I've got a few photos from places I've been that I want to make posts from, and I recently ordered some candle wicks, because I want to experiment with recycling some candles. Oooh, and also something involving espadrilles but I'll keep that under locks for now! Enjoy your week all!
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